Sunday, June 20, 2010

Alterations!!!! Aaagh!!!

Alterations and Commercial patterns are synanomous. Basically you can't get one without the other. I have been working to no end on a customer's blouse pattern from McCalls. Horrible to work with for fullsize women. After the fitting it just makes me want to trash it all and start with a custom pattern. I hate all the slashing and spreading. More paper is used than with designing the pattern. And the time spent in this process is unbelievable.

Saturday, June 05, 2010

Cartridge Pleating

Well today I learned what "Cartridge Pleating" is. No wonder a leg of mutton sleeve and waist pleats looks so good and stands so tall in those vintage gowns. Here is the sight I found the information. Hope it helps.

Wednesday, June 02, 2010

Garden Party- Blue/White Floral Dress

Great!!! I finished a beautiful dress for myself. Excited about that, I don't get to much time to sew for myself. But here it is. I Love It!!!! This was a Vogue pattern (Advanced) as I always try the hard stuff. It has a corset built in to handle that tummy of mine and give me a lift if you know what I mean. I loved the blue and white floral print the moment I laid eyes on it. The dress is made of all natural fabrics, starting with the Cotton/Linen Jacquard, nice texture and a wonderful fabric to work with if I might add. The lining is 100% Kona Cotton, which is a terrific weight to support the outer fabric. I often use the same fabric for my Granddaughters clothes. The only polyester/plastic in this dress is the rigilene boning and the cotton coated poly-thread.

I like the piping on this dress and the pockets. But if I were to do it again, I would add more curve in the bustier area. The piping/seam runs straight across the bust, thereby creating a serious pushup affect. Some may like that, as corsets/butiers are "in vogue" now. A nice little jacket would be forthcoming. To much skin when at a party, otherwise it's perfect for an outdoor event, dressy or casual, just change your shoes and you're off.

Tuesday, June 01, 2010

Fashion Show Dress- "Waves of Desire"

Well, thought I might share this dress with you all. My own design that I made for the Houston Community College Fashion Design Show May 7, 2010. Lots of work went into this, and I really don't like hand stitching, but you must do the thing you hate the most to get the best. The ruffles were done by layering two strips of organza (8" purple and 6" black). They were first cut then a machine roll hem was added to both sides. Whew!!! I like fast sergers. Afterwards I had to machine gather the two layers together. "Row, Row, Row your organza, gently under the gathering foot. Merrily, Merrily, Merrily sewing is but a dream" (Gotta love those easy feet.) After I got off the gathering boat, the strips were ready to be carefully placed on the taffeta overskirt and hand stitched just so, to make them wave and swirl...thus the name "Waves of Desire". The Bustier top was completed with a machine trapunto affect, using 8wt metallic purple multi-colored thread in the bobbin. This included a layer of organza over bridal weight satin and stabilizer underneath. I love the affect it gave, almost looks like hand beading from afar. (Shhh!!!)