For those of us that sew, sizing and the pattern "Grade" matters.
In 2008 I went back to school in hopes of understanding patterns better. It was a success. Did I learn everything there? No, but all education is a success in my eyes... As for commercial patterns, I learn more and more from working right here at home. But the one class that did absolutely teach me the greatest amount of knowledge that has clarified my understanding of the pattern designing and fitting systems, was the class called Pattern Grading. I shall fondly think of my instructor, Diane Brett, from Houston Community College, everytime I cut into a commercial pattern. (I can see clearly now....the lines between sizes are no longer blurred.
Ok, I'll get to the point....I learned that in grading between sizes, the "average" industry standard is to increase sizes incrementally in groups. So, sizes 2-4-6 and 8 have a 1" size difference between each numbered size. Sizes starting up from 8 to 10 to 12 is a pattern grade of 1.5" and from 12 to 14 to 16 to 18 and beyond is graded by 2 inches. Well this is knowledge that is helpful going into the patternmaking and commercial pattern manipulation process.
I even went out and purchased a pattern to check out the "J" curve of the crotch...
I love it... This makes sizing this pattern so, so much easier. But upon closer manipulation I find this...
|Sorry, couldn't get it to turn.|
|...to be blogged later.. but the skirt is Vogue ??? and the bustier is my design.|
- The main grade, or measurement between each size is either 1", 1.5" or 2" in the finished size.
- Each main block, i.e. pant, bodice, skirt side seam is divided by 4, giving us 1/4" per seam for size 6 to 8, 3/8" per seam for size 10-12, and 1/2" per seam for size 14-16 and beyond.
- In this sleeve pattern, the grade changes between sizes, as I learned. The sideseams, grade different from a sleeve. But you get the point.
A simplicity pattern showing the difference in size grades.
More to come...