Thursday, November 20

I call her "ENVY", but she was first Samantha's Jacket

The Teal Leather Jacket... they whispered at Pattern Review weekend back in May.  "Did you see Andrea's Jacket?"  "Did you see all those zippers?"   Should this be considered a late arrive to the party...  I have so much to share, but where do I start?  Should I begin with telling you about how Envy, as she is known, manifested?  For many of you, this post is the prose to the picture you have been seeing in my header for the last six months.  And I hear the cries!!! its about darn time she shared!!   Well I say to you...my lovely sewcialites....here she is!...
Teal, green lambskin leather jacket with zippers by sewtofit.com Sewing with leather.
Envy!!! has arrived in blog land.
"Why, would I name my jacket a name such as that?"  Well, I say, when I am sewing, I have the need to name garments that require a lot of emotional input to get it done.  This here was an emotional roller coaster.  Sewing leather is easy, it was the pattern fitting that was the problem.  (I'll get to that more later.)   
Teal, green lambskin leather jacket with zippers by sewtofit.com Sewing with leather.
Back to the name.... I don't suppose I'm no different than the pattern designer who finds it necessary to name their creations as well.  
Teal, green lambskin leather jacket by sewtofit.com Sewing with leather and zippers.
After a period of time, when I have taken on the challenge of constructing, or fashioning a garment from someone else's base pattern, it has now taken on a new personality, a new flare. I have essentially "adopted" that baby and now after giving it a new home and a new look, I then decided on its new name.  
Teal, green lambskin leather jacket with zippers by sewtofit.com Sewing with leather.
No matter what the original name given by the original owner, they have essentially given me rightful ownership to make of it what I please, or to just leave it the same, as is with a car or home purchase.  "It is mine now, origins only known by me and others who have "adopted" from that same agency/pattern company."  I share it's origins to those I chose, besides, not all adoptees want anyone else to know they were adopted. Am I right?!  
But, oh'.. us sewcialites, we "want" to know the origins and the inspirations,  who's pattern we used, or who's design we copied, either a couture garment from the famed runways of Paris, or the pattern books at the local fabric store, or indie pattern company from any etsy shop.  We want to share, and we want to know, "what pattern" is that?
I put a lot of emotion into every garment I design or construct.  For me, I think I add a little blood, guts and some tears along the way. Thus is the case with Samantha's jacket here, put out by Silhouette patterns. 

A little history
Last year I was on a "pilgrimage" in New York on a fabric buying trip with Silhouette Pattern's, Peggy Sagers, when I came across this leather at Leather Impact.  Gorgeous!!! just absolutely gorgeous...! The most supple lambskin I have touched in a while.  Well not really.  lol, I have others that are just as nice, but I just don't have enough to make anything substantial.  But this stuff is still really very nice.
lambskin teal leather, sewing with leather, layout and cutting leather with sewtofit.com
The leather is extremely easy to sew.  I find it more difficult sewing on silk than I do with leather.  It has a little stretch and is very weak around the edges.  You must be sure to plan and position the pieces carefully to make sure stress points don't end up on the areas of the skins that are weak. 
I traced the pattern pieces for duplicates and multiples in order to avoid missing any "cut 2" or "cut one on fold" kind of stuff.  It could get really easy to miss something when you are switching back and forth between skins, while checking placement.
lambskin teal leather, sewing with leather, layout and cutting leather with sewtofit.com
I used a total of 5 skins for this one jacket.  Whew... that seems like a lot, but with the odd shapes, and the size of the pieces, you have to maneuver each area carefully.  Also, avoiding waste is a job in and of itself.  

FIT.... you will have to get all the gory details in a separate post...it is just too much to talk about in one post. I am so sorry to have to disclose these points about my so loved Silhouette patterns.  But, every designer makes their patterns for their own fit model.  I just don't fit this model.  My shoulders aren't wide enough.
jacket fitting and muslins for leather jackets and sewing with leather on sewtofit.com
Please stay tuned.
Andrea
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