Monday, November 2

Easy to Fit Mock Wrap Dress: NewLook 6301

This dress sewed up so quick and easy that I feel bad I didn't cut and make two while I was at it...!  I was in need of a really simple make that would give me a cute silhouette, and be easy to fit.  Fitting is a big deal for me.  Not on an OCD level, but one that requires me to always, and I mean always, make certain adjustments no matter how simple the pattern.

This pattern was just what I needed and didn't fail.  No muslin, just flat pattern measurements, and knowing what stretch factor I was dealing with helped me to get this one just right the first time.  Woo!! Woo!!!  (Forgive the weird pics...it was storming outside, and I just had to get these photos done because I couldn't wait to share with y'all.)

Ah man!! I really like the hem on this dress.  The a-line shape of the skirt makes it really comfortable and hangs really nicely from the derrière so gracefully.  The bodice is comfortable because I used a mid-weight single knit (ITY) that is not overly thin, which means I didn't need to line it or worry about too much stretching on the neck band...a detail I really love. 
Construction Details:  
  • Pattern- NewLook 6301 (Mock wrap) Feels more like a t-shirt
  • The pattern pieces went together fairly simple.  However, I did change the order of construction so that all the back and front was finished together before closing the side seams.  This made the construction take less than an hour.  I did use a serger, but only as finishing. 
    • sewed the shoulder seams
    • check the fit of the bodice and make adjustments
    • install the neck binding
    • hem the sleeves
    • sew the sleeves on the flat, instead of as a set-in 
    • attach the skirt front to the bodice front, and separately the back as well.
    • sew on the tie ends to the back at the waist just above the seam
    • sew up the side seams and hem the skirt..... done!!
  • Cut Size 12 & 14
  • Alterations-  The pattern has two front pieces, a left and a right.... I used Front piece #1 for both left and right sides
    • 3/4" Pivot & Slide FBA
    • lengthen bodice 1"
    • 3/4" Pivot & Slide Bicep
    • 3/8" Neckline Wedge to help the dress hug the decollate
  • NOTE--- there is a real tendency for this pattern to be baggy under the arms if you try and use the finished size for your bust.  Stick to the pattern size as related to your upper bust and add the full bust adjustment.  Remember to make your adjustment where it is needed, not just depend on the "finished" measurements.  That is an "all around" measurement.
Ask me if I'm happy with this dress.  You will definitely be seeing more.

 

17 comments :

  1. Looking good! And yes, you should have cut and sewed 2 at once!!! :-)

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    1. I know... Another one very soon. Thanks.

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  2. Fabulous dress and the beautiful mix of vibrant colors... just awesome.

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  3. Super, super dress! It looks just wonderful on you. Thank you so much for all the pointers you outlined...I'm just rejoining the sewing world after a very long hiatus. My, how things have changed! I'm delighted to pick up tips from gals like you.

    Mindy

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    1. Thanks Mindy. I returned back to sewing after many,many hiatus'. And each time there were still lots to learn. Glad you have jumped right back in.

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  4. Beautiful dress! Love your fabric print & you look lovely. Great job!

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  5. Such a pretty dress on a pretty lady.

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    1. Wow! Diana, thank you so very much.

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  6. That dress is gorgeous on you! Now tell us how do you get such a nice hem that hangs straight--do you have someone mark it on you while you are wearing the dress? Thank you for sharing!
    Lisa, SF Bay Area

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    1. Hello Lisa, Sorry to just get back to you, but, thanks to your question I was inspired to film a video that would just answer this question for you. Please follow along with my YouTube videos on dress fitting. Here is the link: http://bit.ly/Sew-To-Fit_Dress_Fitting_Videos

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    2. Thank you Andrea! I already watched your video and am waiting for part 2---it was wonderful. We used to call our type of rear ends, Bubble Butts--have you ever heard that one? It fits pretty well for me. You and your daughter look like you have a great time together and I don't blame you for wanting to show her off! I think your method will also help those of us with one hip higher than the other, too.

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  7. Yeeesss! I just love this dress and you've done such a thorough review. I love your construction order, I will try to implement that on my next project.

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    1. Thanks Eryn, I'm glad it was helpful.

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  8. I would like to see how you made the bust bigger on this dress..for me to an F cup size 20

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  9. Your dress is gorgeous! I admire your skills. I love this dress! I've made it twice and will definitely make it again. The first time in a ponte knit and it fit perfectly. The second time I used an ITY, no changes from the ponte, and the front gaped badly (this was after shortening the neck band 3 inches) and I had to take in the sides from the armhole all the way down to the hem about an inch on each side. This was after the elastic was in but before hemming. Hard to unpick stitches in a knit. The ITY fit so differently. Almost thinking I need to go down one size using an ITY. Any thoughts?

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