Tuesday, September 20

Different Age and Body! Same Pattern! Same Size: Newlook 6735

Okay, now I had to go and do this pattern for my daughter!  This pattern is producing some pretty decent garments.  I have made 2 knit tops, 4 pair of pants, and 2 cardigans thus far.  The pattern is a quick pair of elastic waist pants from newlook 6735, the wardrobe pattern I used, again, to make mine and my moms pants.
With this project, these pants, I have come to hate sewing with ITY!  It is so unstable and totally unpredictable.  It has over 150%-200% stretch!!! What fits me, fits you, what fits her, fits them.  A store, or clothing line's best kept secret so they don't need to worry about making clothes that fit.  All that needs to be done is to sew it in a range of sizes and sell to everybody and you got a total market covered.  So, why don't I like ITY?  I should be happy at how well they turned out for my child.  She, looks great, you say?  Why then, am I not happy?
Let's start out explaining the obvious--- construction details.  The hem was a perfect lattice edge finish.  Done on my serger, by way of suggestion from Carol of "G-CAS! Sew Excited!  when she taught a few things about finishing knits on periscope last month. I have seen this done on many garments, but never thought to use it as a hem on pants.  Needless to say, it works very well for this style palazzo pant.  The settings she gave me to get this look did not work for my machine.  So, it wouldn't help for me to give you all the details for my machine, except to say, I used the #7 stitch and followed the directions in my manual.  If you want to do the same, you will need to make sure you have a rolled hem stitch and possibly change the differential feed and stitch length.  Basically, play around with the stitch until you get this look by "Really" stretching the fabric as you sew.
For the waistline finish on these pants and all my knit palazzo versions, I use a multi-stitched elastic finish.  I sew the elastic in first, then fold over the elastic and topstitch as I stretch.  It takes some getting used to since its sewn in the round.  If you want a video tutorial, just let me know in the comments. I cut a size 16 for this pattern and increased the back rise to cover the rear to the waist.  For the inseam, I extended the crotch an inch inside the back leg at the curve.  The pants were completely sewn on the serger.
Excessive Stretch!!!....caused me to hate ITY knits.  These pants were to be mine!!!  ALL MINE!!!  Until, I had my child come and help out as a fit model for a Fit-Friday LIVE!™ Online class that I host every Friday night.    My students voted the pants should be hers after they saw how well they fit her compared to me.  Aaaaggh...?!!  What???,,..... why did I use her as a model.  I loved the colors of these pants, I cut the pants for myself.  The measurement were meant for my hips, 44", not her hips, 56" inches.   At this point I remembered that when something stretches that much....it also means the "ease" is there for any size above your base measurement multiplied by the percentage and added to the original measurement to tell you that those are the sizes the garment will "stretch" to fit.  i.e..  44x150%=66"  That means that these pants will stretch UP TO 66"inches.  So, if you are 44", 50", 55", 60", or 66", then these pants will fit you.  Cool right? Well, that's cool for my child, but not for me.
You can judge for yourself...but I lost the battle of the pants when my students saw her modeling them in our class.  They listened to me explain all the details of crotch fitting and length changes and then chimed in on who looks better in these pants.  She won!!  (the exclamation points express how I really feel.  LOL.)




Looks to me like she has the expression on her face that says::::  "I WoN!!!"  Please tell me you don't love yourself some ITY knit?  Tell me I'm not alone in my contempt for that fabric, please.

14 comments :

  1. I love my ITY knits for tops but I understand your frustration with them as pants....BUT they do look great on her. Sorry that great print didn't get to join your wardrobe but do love the hem you used. At least they stayed in the family:-)

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    1. Thanks Jane...I shall now concede defeat. Lol.

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  2. I don't know how the pants look on you, but they look great on your girl!! I love the print.

    FWIW, I don't wear polyester as it feels weird, icy and wrong (and holds the smell of perspiration) on me, so I will join you in disliking ITY.

    Do you mean a lettuce hem? I've managed to do this before on a sewing machine by stitching all around the hem with a zig zag stitch, then going over it again with a zig zag as much as it needed. Doing a very close together stitch caused the sewing machine to eat the fabric, but by putting on layers of thread it build up to a nice density of thread, and stretched out the edge to 'lettuce' it! I don't have a serger, I had one years ago but we parted ways...

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    1. Thanks, A McSweeney... I think is should be "lettuce". Again, new to me stitch, but still fun. I also did this on my granddaughters skirt, and she loved the look.

      It seems you can get a reasonable finish with the sewing machine, but with many passes and a little tension. I have yet to even attempt to do this on the machine.

      Thanks for suggesting another option.

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  3. I love some ity knits, but its not my favorite due to the stretch...

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    1. These ITY knits come in some awesome colors. I will keep buying them..but of course, I will practice a little more caution next time. You know if I don't, she will end up with several more outfits. LOL Lucky her.

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  4. I can see why you wanted these pants for yourself, they are lovely on your daughter!!! I know that would have been stunning on you too had they fit! I do love ITY knits for tops, skirts and for some dresses. I have not used it for pants...however, knowing how it stretches, I can't imagine I will ever use it for pants now!

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  5. I like ITY for bikinis and sports bras for my mama and I ONLY. I do NOT use it for pants, but I do love me some knits!
    I got hooked on oc/spandex 95/5% euro knits because of buying them for my 3yr old son and that ish is expensive!!! Your daughter looks great in those pants, tho, and they're swamping you. Maybe go down in size when using so much stretch??

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  6. What is so odd to me about ITYs is that they are *never* the same -- no consistency whatsoever. Some have a crazy amount of stretch, some are paper thin, others are beefier, you just never know what you are going to get! I buy and use them but I often have to change my plan for them once they arrive. Really great pants, they have such a nice flow to them.

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  7. Team Jennifer! Those pants look great on both of you. I love that fabric too.

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  8. Sewing ITY knit is like wrestling with the devil. I have to be in an 'up to the challenge' mentality to deal with it. There are a few tricks I have used to manage this untamed fabric but normally I avoid it--umm, no, not today.

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    1. Sorry, I forgot to mention, the pants look great on your daughter. ITY is indeed a friend to the curvy girl-lol.

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  9. Love these pants on her! Such a fun and lively print.

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  10. Sorry the fabric is such a pain,but you made it look like a piece of cake!

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