Monday, October 3

Shirt making For The Big & Tall Man:: Burda 6874

More shirt making for my better half and I say it looks great on him. My son had his new shirt and this time around the man of the house gets to have his day in the spotlight.  Sewing for the Big & Tall or shall I say Athletic & Tall guys, is much more different than sewing my my son, who is pretty slim and wiry.
I have not had any formal training in sewing men's shirts. I just look at pictures and figure things out by looking at his rtw shirts before I make it up. Fit is a big deal for any athletically built guy. There are big biceps, strong short neck, full shoulders and wide broad chest, tall build at 6'2" plus. These days they want their shirts to fit tighter yet not look like they are stuffed into a garment meant for a smaller man. So, I am having to learn how to fit the "big & tall" not so big but muscular dude.   Typical patterns are useless to say the least because unless it's custom you can forget it ever fitting. Because of that, I had to make a long list of alterations based off his rtw shirt with a few conventions where the rtw doesn't fit properly.

Burda 6874 by Sewtofit.com Shirt with hidden button placket.
Since this is my first time blogging a shirt for my man, I should start out with the fact that before this new slim fitting look, I have never had a problem making shirts for him.  It is only now that this "European cut" is en-vogue for the big guy.  I do think it is a much more slimming look than the loose fitting preggo look of days gone by.  Also, the length is such a personalized area as well, and for him he wants it to be pretty long over his hips.  This length may appear to work and he does look great in this length, however, he has requested another two inches to the hem.  It is his preference to wear the sleeve cuffs folded back on themselves and hanging very long. So with that, I will be adding another inch to the sleeve so they can pool around the wrist after folding up the cuff. The shoulders will have another 3/8" added to the yoke.  Just enough so it will allow more for the topstitching of the flat felled seams yet keep it very slimly fitted.  Also, I plan to totally omit the back pleat since after trying this on, he showed me another shirt that just doesn't have that pleat.  Removing the pleat will definitely give a much more slimming fit to the back and make it hang closer to the body.
In all fairness, I cannot lend too much to the sizing of the pattern as I had to up the size by about 4 sizes and make a myriad of adjustments in order for it to fit my man...  I basically used the rtw shirt he has and measured parts of it to get the pattern the size of the rtw in key areas, while adjusting for the size where the rtw didn't fit.  I lengthened it by 2inches on the sleeves and hem, added to the neck measurement and increased the finished size of the back and front yoke so it wouldn't look ill formed over his large shoulders. I added about 1" in front of the yoke and another 1" at the back, but I also did a 1/4" seam allowance to gain more back length in the yoke. The pattern stops at a neck size 17.5', I needed 20" but ended up at 19.5" neck because I failed to add enough at the center back.  It still closes as he needs, but may not be as comfy. I left off the top button since he doesn't like to button the top anyway.
I already have several more ready to be laid out with contrasting collar stands and cuffs. This has a denim twill strip that I topstitched onto the cuff and sewed it into the finished seam.
What shirt patterns do you know of that already consider a large neck size and hefty body build?  I'm thinking of trying the Joost de Cock of MakeMyPattern for a custom shirt pattern in the future.












30 comments :

  1. That's awesome 👏🏽 I would love to try a man shirt. You are a great sewist!

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    1. Thanks Marcy. You did that jacket, this will be easy. Just a bunch of small steps, but nothing you can't handle after that piped jacket.

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  2. So this is your Mr. R! Nice shirt Andrea;)

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    1. Yep!!! that's my boo. Ann. Thank you.

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  3. Beautiful fit and great fabric choice. Awesome, Andrea!

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    1. Thank you Bunny. He actually came to New York with me and helped choose his shirt fabrics. Pretty nice shopping with him. I got as much for myself. Lol

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  4. Alright now, that is really Sharpe especially with that cuff detail.

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  5. That is so awesome, love the cuff details.

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  6. Love this shirt Ms. Andrea! Your boo is styling it too! I love the detail you placed on the cuff, great idea! What is "Joost de Cock"? I looked on the "MakeMyPattern" website but didn't see anything.

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    1. Thanks Myra. Here is Joost's YouTube channel http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL1gv5yv3DoZOHLjisuD1JcUPTkFy_IGGO

      Here is his Instagram:: joostdecock

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  7. Oh my word that cuff! Such a fantastic shirt! And that fit across the back is just perfect!!!!

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  8. Gorgeous shirt. It looks like it fits him quite nicely. I believe you already have a nicely fitted pattern for him here!

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  9. Fabulous shirt and that cuff is stupendous. I've sewn casual short sleeve summer shirts but haven't tackled the full long sleeve challenge yet. Great job.

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    1. Thanks Jane M.. I sometimes find it more fun to just make a short sleeve as well.

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  10. Great job! The Big & Tall Man clothes are SOOOO expensive if you want quality and fit. This Man is very lucky to have YOU in his life! Mary in AZ

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  11. That's one great looking shirt, and the cuff detail is fabulous!

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  12. Very Nice, Great Shirt, wonderful fabric.

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  13. Andrea, thank you sooooo much for this post. I have a Big & Tall guy too, and yes, it is a struggle to find a pattern that comes close to fitting them. I LOVE this shirt you made for your husband. I've been telling my husband that I'll make him a shirt soon. I can't wait to show him your husband's. I love the fabric and that CUFF! OMGosh! This is just FABULOUS!!! Amazing work!

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  14. Your son's shirt and now this one!!! Both are awesome and even though you had to make a lot of changes to the pattern it looks amazing on him. I haven't made my husband a shirt in years and really should as he loves them. Love the fabric and all the details.

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  15. I really need to get back to making my husband's shirts! This is awesome. I love your fabric choice!

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  16. I'm so late for this post but the shirt is amazing! I love the personal touches. Is there anything you can't sew?!

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  17. So So impressed !! It's fantastic ! Great shirting fabric, where did you find it ! I haven't found good options for men's shirts. Also love the denim twill.

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    1. Hello hobby lover. I got the fabric in New York at a place called A&A textiles. Not sure the address.

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  18. What great guy style and fit. The only thing that shouts out to me is the drag lines at the top of the sleeves asking for more cap ease and the tightness in the armpit. All your pattern alterations have certainly turned this into one killer custom shirt! Going to check out your link to Joost. I made an extra large shirt for a man once using Janet Pray's pattern and it turned out pretty good.Thanks for sharing!

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    1. Wow. Thank you MrsMole. I was certain it was the yoke. So next time I will concentrate on the sleeve itself. The original shirts I used were actually the Margaret Islander shirts. Hers were my first experience sewing shirts for my husband. I took Margaret's class when she came to Houston and taught us how to sew the shirt in two hours. Of course with all the fancy stuff requested like this one, there's no way I can sew that fast. Still I learned a great deal from the islander methods.

      Thanks for the suggestions. So appreciative that you took the time to give me feedback.

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