Thursday, July 19

Completed: Asymetric Top- Pacific Blues

Abstract prints and detailed design elements have always been and still are totally my style.  Most any print has always had a place in my heart, but abstract and geometric fabric designs take first place in my heart.


The "geometric" character in the design of this top is what actually stood out the most. Lots of intersecting lines along with the abstract print go together extremely well.
The fabric is a very lightweight Rayon Crepe, slightly sheer, and airy with terrific drape.
Considering I chose a pattern with an extreme number of bias seams, my normal propensity to quickly roll this out, was thwarted by the need to sew carefully and attentively through every "bias" seam. The results turned out much better than I expected.

I purchased this fabric from Sew Much Fabric, here. (Pacific Blue/White Abstract Print Rayon Crepe)
mccalls 7579, #m7579, sewtofit,
CONSTRUCTION Details:

I had to test quite a few Seam finishings before I settled on the overlock, with a differential feed for control. It created a lighter weight and didn’t cause any adverse effects with the hang and flexibility of all the intersecting bias seams. Before I finished with the overlock, I did sew a basting stitch on my industrial sewing machine in order to stabilize the seams. You would be well advised to use a walking foot on the home machine to control the bias.
Pressing and interfacing: I did not use interfacing anywhere on the garment because I did not want to stiffen or increase the thickness, which would have interfered with the drape. The neck and arm band needed no interfacing because the pattern used two bias strips folded over then sewn.

PATTERN Details-

McCalls 7579- Asymmetric top with neck and arm bands, and back slit opening.
FITTING and Pattern MANIPULATION Details:

Here is a video with many more details of my pattern alterations process.

To make the top fit just a tad closer to my body with less ease.  I folded and tucked up the pattern pieces in every area possible after putting the tissue pattern together in order see exactly where I could fold out ease, create a sway back adjustment, remove volume, and add an FBA using the seams, instead of cutting and slashing.  I lengthened the left side, and shorted the right side drape, as well as curved the side seams dramatically. 

All-in-all this pattern and the fabric gave me just the challenge I needed.  I think the next item will certainly be one with less details, and definitely, no bias seams.

Until next time... "See you on the other side of the internet!!!"

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