Monday, May 5

Completed: The Pucci dress. McCalls 6713

When I was in need of a classy dress to wear to my sister's birthday dinner. I wanted something that would still allow me to eat unhindered by waistbands, belts or stays. This dress has a waist seem with elastic inside, thereby, giving you a very comfortable forgiving fit. The front self lined bodice is cut on the bias, with gathered shoulders and a tucked left side, self-lined pleated drape, and stitched hems. (Although, for my bodice, I used a lightweight rayon knit as my lining throughout the entire dress.)
I found this gorgeous Pucci jersey at Elliot Berman fabrics during my New York trip in April 2013.

The sizes range from size 8-16 in one envelope, totally unusual, a plus for grading. I cut a 14 up top and a 16 down low graded to 14 at waist.

The version of the dress I made is exactly as pictured on the design. Of course if I wanted to ride my bike, I would have made the more flared version.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?You need to cut the bodice lining slightly smaller since this is a knit. I like the dress a lot, however I would suggest hanging if OVER the clothes hanger. Every since it sent it to the cleaners, and it hung from the shoulders it has grown a bit much. The weight of the side flounce panel creates a bunch of weight on such a narrow waist seam. I would recommend increasing the waist seam to 1 inch in order to allow for the elastic to run through all the multi layers of fabric at the side where the flounce hangers from.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: Because this was a two sided border print I really had to take time to arrange the pieces.
1. I cut single layers. I held the flounce for last in case I ran out of border, which I did. So since the border is self lined, I ended up actually piecing it together. (Very inconspicuous).
2. I did a 1.5" FBA
3. I raised the armhole by 1/2" for coverage. Something I usually must do on MCalls patterns. The armhole cut should not be the same for sleeveless, and sleeved garments.
4. Lowed the back hem gradually from the sides by 1.5" to allow for my rear curvature so the dress would hike up.
5. Sway back adjustment of 3/4"

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?I would highly recommend with modifications to the neckline by adding support to limit stretching due to the skirt weight and to increase the waist seam to one inch.

Conclusion: this is a lovey sexy dress when cut straight. If you donot like tight dresses, then the flared version is a great everyday dress. The next time I make it will be the flared version and I will raise the neckline.

I would highly recommend this dress as a staple with modifications to the neckline by adding support to limit stretching due to the skirt weight and to increase the inner waist seam to one inch.

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