Tailoring Part 2: Pattern Prep, Interfacing, Pockets, and Darts
Okay, hello everybody, I am back to share more tailoring escapades of my son's suit. Of course, I will admit this will not get done by tomorrow. I slowed down a little bit because I made some really silly mistakes, maybe because I was sidetracked, or just maybe because I was tired, either way it is getting done. I would rather it be done right then it to be done fast and wrong. So keep reading if you want to find the mistakes I made. I know you want to...we all have it in us to see what someone else did wrong. Be my guest, I'll even help you.
There's my handsome baby boy fitting the shell of his new suit. Doesn't he look excited?
Here are the things I've gotten done so far. Some of the techniques and changes I made are from various sources, but the main one I use for tailoring is my book, Classic tailoring techniques, a Construction Guide for menswear, by Robert Cabrera and Patricia Flaherty Meyers
- Altered the roll line on the jacket front to be 5/8 inch above the first button and then I made sure that it ended at least 3/8 inch out from the neck cutting line at the top
- Changed the back shoulder seems to be at least 1/2 inch longer than the front shoulder
- The center back vent was changed to 2 inches wide near the top and graded it to 3 inches at the hem.
- The front facing straight of grain orientation straightened to line up with the center front and the size was increased to 2" inches wide at the shoulder, 3 inches wide from the midpoint of the roll line and 5 1/2 inches wide at the hem.
Interfacing: Before I installed the pockets and sewed the darts, I underlined the entire jacket with fusible weft interfacing cut on the same grain as the jacket. It is a Rayon/polyester medium weight weft interfacing called "Perfect Fuse" from Palmer/Pletsch.
Stabilizing: The jacket was steam pressed by hand to cause as much shrinking as possible beforehand. This is not the only interfacing we'll be using for this jacket, horse hair braid and canvas will be used to further stabilize only the jacket front, should/breast and upper back and sleeve cap.
Marking each piece was done after all underlining/interfacing was completed by placing the pattern tissue back on the fabric to check for any distortion and make sure the size was okay. then using tailor tacks or tailors chalk to mark placement lines, etc. (With the interfacing in place, I was free to mark as needed without worry of show through.)
OOOPs!!! Yeah! I ran out of fabric, so this became a real Tim Gunn "Make it work." moment. You will find out some of the places I actually made it work as the construction moves forward.
The single welt pocket was finished and hand stitched along the sides to secure the welt. The pocket isn't shining, I think its the camera angle. Do you see the dart under the pocket?
Looking inside the chest pocket: you can see I have the base shell fabric on the bottom towards the body and the lining is actually on the top facing the jacket, but hidden from view when worn.
Stay tuned in for the fitting and more "Make it work." moments.