Monday, November 7

Sew-To-Fit LIVE!- VLOG *1- Mom's Cape Jacket, Pant, Studio Update and My New Cardigan

Thanks again folks for being so patient with me as I update and migrate all my great sewing project information into my blog.  I know I have been behind on writing these updates.  I am currently trying to work out a good system of organizing all my fun updates and material to keep you posted on all the wonderful projects happing with me.  With that, I have decided to do regular "Project Chronicles" and "Video Logs" via my periscope.tv and youtube channel for you stay up-to-date.   Unfortunately, some of the information may seem "dated" and behind schedule.  Namely, I have yet to complete the video editing and migration for all of the September Wardrobe Challenge and the October Halloween CosPlay costumes I did for my family.
VLOG #1- Sewing for Mom, Pants & Cape Jacket, and Studio Update 11/4/2016
Click on picture to go to youtube



Project Chronicles: Part 1-Fitting Mom's Cape Jacket Muslin/Toile

Hello all...I'm back for another part of the Cape Jacket fitting for Mom.  In this video I am walking through the step-by-step fitting process which I take in order to make sure she is happy with the Cape Jacket before I cut the fabric and move on to the pants.  When I do a test fitting, I use a very bright colored sharpie marker and write all my notes directly onto the muslin or test garment.  This is why I only use a light color fabric for my test garments.
I know some people use whatever is available, but I consider my test garment my "notepad" for my comments on the body.  I like to take note of the hipline, waist, shoulders, neckline, etc., as they may prove useful when I look at the paper pattern later on before cutting and making adjustments. Sometimes, I use the test as my pattern and just remove the stitches and lay those onto the fabric itself.


The pants and the jacket have been cut and are waiting for interfacing at the point of typing this post.  Those will be up later when I do the video....I tend to do better when the camcorder is running while I am working.  Then I can just speed up the film.  I love watching time-lapsed videos.  Don't you?
Iconic Patterns Cape Jacket being cut out.
The fabric for the suit is a Stretch Wool Double Cloth from SMFabric here.  
More details will be posted when I write up a proper review post of the Iconic Patterns Jacket.  Mom really loves that jacket!  Who knew?  Especially, since it did not look good on me.  Oh well.  

Sunday, November 6

How to Trace a Pattern

I recorded this a very long time ago to show my friend how I trace patterns when I don't want to cut them. Sorry it was kind of dark, I was actually on vacation when I filmed this. You will need sharpie markers to make this work best and semitransparent tracing paper from the art supply store.mine is the Canary Yellow art paper. http://amzn.to/2et2nqn Please don't forget to like this video.
http://youtu.be/BRd9LaNFbg8

Friday, November 4

Fitting Thoughts #1: Pattern Fitting and Weight training for Posture

I have been noticing a slight difference in the way my clothes fit in the back lately. I've noticed that the back of my makes do not fit as well. It almost seems like my back is a little bit longer from my shoulder blade to my shoulder point. I thought about it for a while now, and realized that I may be slumping over more now than before or is it my body changing with age?
Than I decided to take a look at it a little bit closer when I realized that I have not been doing my back exercises the way I used to about a year ago. I used to always do special back supporting exercises that strengthened my posture. I haven't been doing my wing back exercises, I haven't been using my weights either. Now I'm noticing a slight curvature of my upper back. I normally do a small broad back adjustment on my patterns of no more than 3/8" or 1/2". Even though I do a swayback adjustment for my hip and my waistline, I never have to worry about it at the top of my center back. What is this? Is this old age, is this the meaning of getting older? Is this the beginning of osteoporosis or dowagers hump.
I will need to read more about this bad posture in the sewing room and make up exercises to strengthen my back. Lest I need more pattern alterations for the back.





Tuesday, October 25

10 Industrial Sewing Machine Feet





In this video I explain the sewing machine presser feet that I have and use the most with my Juki DDL-8300N industrial sewing machine.  I also use my BERNINA home machine in tandem with this one.

Monday, October 10

Tulle Skirt for "Mini-Me"

Did I ever tell you how my child waits until the last minute to ask me to sew something for Mini-Me? I do seriously believe that when ideas come to her mind, she believes there are no limits to my abilities. Also, I believe, that I don't have any sense of bounds where my granddaughter's needs are concerned, no matter how little time I have. It's a no-brainier, when my child has an idea for an outfit for my granddaughter, I just cannot say no, and whatever it is, has to be top notch. This tulle skirt came about because Jennifer dreamt up an idea for a pearls and tulle Christmas Photoshoot. Each year she does a different theme, this years theme required a skirt that gave all the fluff I could give for a child yet not make it look like a toddler tutu.
 Well you know what I did....I did what any Mimi would do.  I took care of my business and made a gorgeous, beautiful tulle skirt for my Mini-Me.  Doesn't she look absolutely magnificent in this 25 yards of tulle fabric!!!

Saturday, October 1

Buttonholes: Coats, Jeans, and Silk.- Tutorial

Since everyone is sewing jeans and denim jackets lately, I thought I might mention my tutorial which I posted on the Bernina USA Blog, WeAllSew.

You can find a full tutorial and tips for getting better buttonholes on your machine, here, or by pressing the picture.
Enjoy. 

Friday, September 30

Almost Reversible Dress...My Design Process | Newlook 6482

Here is a simple project that took a little thought to finalize.  In my design process, most often I draw up a design before I sew it up, in order to help me visualize the look before I use my fabrics in the final design.  If I come across a pattern that has a basic design, it becomes my canvas for designing what I want.  But let's be clear, the design doesn't take shape until I've had time to doodle around the line drawing while giving my creative juices a chance to birth something wonderful.  When I sew with a print, the print speaks to me and directs my thoughts to a design.  In the case of a wonderful solid, I am free to do whatever, or maybe even embellish. In the case of this dress pattern...it was ripe for any design I could imagine.  And this is what I imagined....
Newlook 6482, Simplicity 3503

Wednesday, September 28

Happy Birthday Son!!...Mail Order Men's Shirts | KwikSew 2777

This man here will always challenge my husband's position in my heart.   I made this shirt for his birthday in time to mail it to him as a surprise.  When he got it, he thought it was the pants to the suit I started 2 years ago.  No such luck buddy! Those pants will be finished soon, but with a different material for the waistband and the pockets.  You see, when I made the suit coat, I ran out of fabric to finish the pants.  Besides, I doubt seriously he will be able to fit the pants by now.

Tuesday, September 20

Different Age and Body! Same Pattern! Same Size: Newlook 6735

Okay, now I had to go and do this pattern for my daughter!  This pattern is producing some pretty decent garments.  I have made 2 knit tops, 4 pair of pants, and 2 cardigans thus far.  The pattern is a quick pair of elastic waist pants from newlook 6735, the wardrobe pattern I used, again, to make mine and my moms pants.
With this project, these pants, I have come to hate sewing with ITY!  It is so unstable and totally unpredictable.  It has over 150%-200% stretch!!! What fits me, fits you, what fits her, fits them.  A store, or clothing line's best kept secret so they don't need to worry about making clothes that fit.  All that needs to be done is to sew it in a range of sizes and sell to everybody and you got a total market covered.  So, why don't I like ITY?  I should be happy at how well they turned out for my child.  She, looks great, you say?  Why then, am I not happy?
Let's start out explaining the obvious--- construction details.  The hem was a perfect lattice edge finish.  Done on my serger, by way of suggestion from Carol of "G-CAS! Sew Excited!  when she taught a few things about finishing knits on periscope last month. I have seen this done on many garments, but never thought to use it as a hem on pants.  Needless to say, it works very well for this style palazzo pant.  The settings she gave me to get this look did not work for my machine.  So, it wouldn't help for me to give you all the details for my machine, except to say, I used the #7 stitch and followed the directions in my manual.  If you want to do the same, you will need to make sure you have a rolled hem stitch and possibly change the differential feed and stitch length.  Basically, play around with the stitch until you get this look by "Really" stretching the fabric as you sew.
For the waistline finish on these pants and all my knit palazzo versions, I use a multi-stitched elastic finish.  I sew the elastic in first, then fold over the elastic and topstitch as I stretch.  It takes some getting used to since its sewn in the round.  If you want a video tutorial, just let me know in the comments. I cut a size 16 for this pattern and increased the back rise to cover the rear to the waist.  For the inseam, I extended the crotch an inch inside the back leg at the curve.  The pants were completely sewn on the serger.
Excessive Stretch!!!....caused me to hate ITY knits.  These pants were to be mine!!!  ALL MINE!!!  Until, I had my child come and help out as a fit model for a Fit-Friday LIVE!™ Online class that I host every Friday night.    My students voted the pants should be hers after they saw how well they fit her compared to me.  Aaaaggh...?!!  What???,,..... why did I use her as a model.  I loved the colors of these pants, I cut the pants for myself.  The measurement were meant for my hips, 44", not her hips, 56" inches.   At this point I remembered that when something stretches that much....it also means the "ease" is there for any size above your base measurement multiplied by the percentage and added to the original measurement to tell you that those are the sizes the garment will "stretch" to fit.  i.e..  44x150%=66"  That means that these pants will stretch UP TO 66"inches.  So, if you are 44", 50", 55", 60", or 66", then these pants will fit you.  Cool right? Well, that's cool for my child, but not for me.
You can judge for yourself...but I lost the battle of the pants when my students saw her modeling them in our class.  They listened to me explain all the details of crotch fitting and length changes and then chimed in on who looks better in these pants.  She won!!  (the exclamation points express how I really feel.  LOL.)




Looks to me like she has the expression on her face that says::::  "I WoN!!!"  Please tell me you don't love yourself some ITY knit?  Tell me I'm not alone in my contempt for that fabric, please.
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