How to Choose the Right Fabric for a Pattern When Reading a Pattern Envelope
Andrea Davis 
“Learn how to choose the right fabric for any sewing pattern by understanding fabric types, weight, drape, and reading pattern envelopes correctly.”
Choosing the right fabric is just as important as selecting the right pattern. Even a well-drafted pattern won’t work if the fabric is too stiff, too stretchy, or too drapey for the design. Fortunately, the pattern envelope provides essential clues to guide you in making the best choice. This post will help you understand how to read the fabric recommendations and make informed adjustments based on fabric descriptions from Sew Much Fabric, Vogue Fabrics, Fabric Wholesale Direct (FWD), and Mood Fabrics.
Step 1: Check the Recommended Fabrics
Suggested Graphic: A comparison chart showing fabric categories (Woven, Stretch Knits, Specialty Fabrics) with a sample swatch image for each.
Most pattern envelopes include a section labeled “Suggested Fabrics†or “Fabric Recommendations.†This list is your best starting point because the pattern designer has already tested the garment using these materials.
Some common fabric categories you”ll see include:
1. Woven Fabrics (Non-Stretch)
These fabrics have no built-in stretch and provide structured results, making them ideal for tailored garments like shirts, jackets, and structured dresses.
- Cotton Poplin (SewMuchFabric.com) A crisp, medium-weight cotton with a smooth finish. Great for button-up shirts and dresses.
- Rayon Challis (VogueFabrics.com) – A lightweight woven fabric with a soft drape, making it perfect for flowy blouses and skirts.
- Linen Blend (MoodFabrics.com) – A breathable woven fabric that softens with wear, best for summer dresses, skirts, and relaxed trousers.
2. Stretch Knits (For Fitted Garments)
Knits stretch due to their looped construction, making them perfect for fitted styles, wrap dresses, leggings, and tops.
Ponte Knit (FabricWholesaleDirect.com) – A stable double-knit fabric with some structure, great for dresses and tailored knit garments.
Bamboo Jersey (MoodFabrics.com) A soft, breathable knit with a beautiful drape, excellent for T-shirts and casual dresses.
French Terry (SewMuchFabric.com) A medium-weight knit with a soft looped backing, often used for loungewear and hoodies.
Step 2: Consider Fabric Weight and Drape
The weight of the fabric determines how the garment will fall and move. Check if your pattern calls for light, medium, or heavyweight fabrics and choose accordingly.
- Lightweight Fabrics (Soft Drape) Best for flowy garments.
- Example: Georgette (SewMuchFabric.com) A slightly sheer, lightweight fabric with a fluid drape, ideal for blouses and scarves.
- Medium-Weight Fabrics (Structured Drape) Works for more tailored or crisp designs.
Example: Twill (FabricWholesaleDirect.com) – A durable weave often used in pants, skirts, and jackets.
Heavyweight Fabrics (Firm Drape) – Holds shape well for structured garments.
Example: Denim (MoodFabrics.com) A classic heavyweight cotton, great for jackets, jeans, and skirts.
Step 3: Pay Attention to Fabric Width
Suggested Graphic: A side-by-side comparison of a 45” vs. 60” fabric layout with pattern pieces arranged differently to illustrate the impact on fabric requirements.
Fabric comes in different widths (usually 45” or 60”), and this affects how much yardage you need.
If your pattern calls for 60” wide fabric, but you choose 45” fabric, you may need to buy extra fabric to fit all the pattern pieces.
Certain fabrics, like lace or specialty brocade, may be narrower (36”-42”), requiring even more yardage.
Step 4: Understand Stretch and Grainline Requirements
1. If Your Pattern Calls for Stretch Fabric
Suggested Graphic: A stretch percentage chart demonstrating how to test fabric stretch against a ruler (e.g., 2-way vs. 4-way stretch).
Look for a stretch percentage guide on the pattern envelope.
2-Way Stretch The fabric stretches in one direction (side to side).
4-Way Stretch The fabric stretches in both directions (side to side and top to bottom).
If you substitute a low-stretch knit (like Ponte) for a high-stretch knit (like Bamboo Jersey), your garment may feel too tight.
2. Grainline Matters
Suggested Graphic: An illustration of grainlines, showing the difference between cutting on the straight grain, bias grain, and cross grain.
The grainline on the pattern envelope indicates how to place the pieces on your fabric. Directional prints or fabrics with a nap (like velvet) must be cut carefully to ensure a consistent look.
Step 5: Consider Print, Texture, and Fabric Type
Suggested Graphic: Side-by-side images of solid fabrics vs. printed fabrics on the same pattern to show how prints impact the look of seams and darts.
Choosing the right print and texture enhances the final look of your garment.
- Solid vs. Print: Large-scale prints may distort if there are many seams, so simpler silhouettes work best for bold prints.
- Stripes & Plaids: Plaid fabric from VogueFabrics.com requires extra yardage for matching patterns across seams.
- Textures: Corduroy and Velvet from MoodFabrics.com have a nap (directional texture), so pattern pieces must be cut all in the same direction to avoid color variation.
Final Thoughts
Suggested Graphic: A “Fabric Shopping Checklists with key points for choosing the right material based on weight, stretch, width, and drape.
Choosing fabric wisely means matching its weight, stretch, drape, and texture with the design of your pattern. If you’re unsure, start with the recommended fabrics listed on the pattern envelope and explore trusted online fabric retailers for detailed fabric descriptions.
Fabric Shopping Resources
SewMuchFabric.com Specializes in fashion-forward wovens and knits
VogueFabrics.com Offers a variety of plaids, suitings, and specialty fabrics
FabricWholesaleDirect.com Great for budget-friendly fabric options
MoodFabrics.com Known for designer fabrics and luxury textiles
What’s the biggest fabric mistake you’ve ever made? Drop a comment below and let’s chat about it!
