Fitting Focus: Why Your Pattern Does't Fit
Andrea Davis 
Learn why patterns don’t fit and how to check fit before sewing. Get tools, tips, and clarity to sew with confidence.
Why Your Pattern Doesn’t Fit—And How to Stop Guessing and Start Sewing with Confidence
If you’ve ever followed the size chart, cut your fabric, and still ended up with a garment that doesn’t fit—you are not alone. And more importantly, you’re not doing anything wrong. In this post, I’m going to show you why most patterns don’t fit out of the envelope and what you can do to confidently check fit before you ever cut a muslin or your fabric.
The Truth About Patterns and Your Body
Most commercial patterns are drafted using a fit model. They follow a set of body landmarks—high bust, full bust, waist, hip—but they don’t reflect the wide range of body shapes and proportions we actually have. If your body doesn’t match that base model, the pattern won’t fit you without adjustments.
Start with the High Bust—Not the Full Bust
The high bust measurement determines your frame—especially your shoulder width and upper chest. If you choose your pattern size based on the full bust and your frame is smaller, you’ll end up with excess fabric and poor shaping across the chest and arms. Always start with high bust to choose your base size, then adjust for full bust if needed.
Waist and Hip Tell You Where to Add Shape
These two landmarks help you figure out how to shape the garment to your body. The waist measurement shows where your torso curves in, while the hips tell you how the garment should flare or fit through the lower body. If you’ve ever had a waistband hit too high or a skirt ride up, this is why.
Don’t Try to Fit the Pattern—Check if the Pattern Fits You
Use your measurement chart and finished garment measurements. Trace the pattern or overlay it with tracing paper. Then mark your measurements visually on the pattern. You’re not guessing anymore—you’re comparing. You’re checking for width, length, and shape differences between your body and the pattern’s design.
Understand Wearing Ease vs. Design Ease
Ease is built into every pattern. There are two kinds:
- Wearing ease: This gives you enough room to move and breathe.
- Design ease: This is extra space for style and silhouette.
Too much ease and your garment looks baggy. Too little and it feels tight. Comparing your measurements to the finished garment measurements tells you whether the pattern will be too snug or overly loose.
You’re Not One Size—and That’s Okay
Most people aren’t one size all over. You might be a size 14 in the bust, 18 in the waist, and 16 in the hips. That’s normal. That’s why we use grading between sizes. It’s not cheating—it’s customizing. Patterns assume proportion, but we sewists create precision.
Use Your Block or Sloper as a Comparison Tool
Your personal block (or sloper) is one of the most valuable fitting tools you can have. It reflects your actual measurements and proportions without style ease. Lay your block over the pattern:
- Align bust point, waist, and grainline
- Compare widths and lengths
- Highlight where the pattern needs changes
This simple check will save you time, fabric, and frustration.
Make a Fitting Checklist
Keep a list of your common fitting changes. Things like:
- Full bust adjustment (FBA)
- Swayback correction
- Lowered waistline
- Forward shoulder adjustment
Having this ready before you start a new project means you already know where to check and what to tweak—no surprises, no wasted time.
Sew With Confidence—Not Confusion
You deserve to sew with clarity, not frustration. Patterns aren’t perfect, but when you know how to read them and use your measurements and block, you are in control. You can start sewing sooner and with confidence.
Want more support? Watch the Fitting Focus Webinar Series on YouTube, or keep get on the mailing list to get updates when they are scheduled. That's where I walk you through different fitting focus steps in this new series.
Let’s stop the guesswork and sew garments that truly fit.
Talk later,
Andrea
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