Sew-To-Fit by A.D. Lynn

Alterations and Commercial patterns are synanomous. Basically you can't get one without the other. I have been working to no end on a customer 's blouse pattern from McCalls. Horrible to work with for fullsize women. After the fitting it just makes me want to trash it all and start with a custom pattern. I hate all the slashing and spreading. More paper is used than with designing the pattern. And the time spent in this process is unbelievable.

Well today I learned what "Cartridge Pleating" is. No wonder a leg of mutton sleeve and waist pleats looks so good and stands so tall in those vintage gowns. Here is the sight I found the information. Hope it helps. www.elizabethancostume.net/cartpleat

Well, thought I might share this dress with you all. My own design that I made for the Houston Community College Fashion Design Show May 7, 2010. Lots of work went into this, and I really don't like hand stitching, but you must do the thing you hate the most to get the best. The ruffles were done by layering two strips of organza (8" purple and 6" black). They were first cut then a machine roll hem was added to both sides. Whew!!! I like fast sergers. Afterwards I had to machine gather the two layers together. "Row, Row, Row your organza, gently under the gathering foot. Merrily, Merrily, Merrily sewing is but a dream" (Gotta love those easy feet.) After I got off the gathering boat, the strips were ready to be carefully placed on the taffeta overskirt and hand stitched just so, to make them wave and swirl...thus the name "Waves of Desire". The Bustier top was completed with a machine trapunto affect, using 8wt metallic purple multi-colored thread in