Friday, October 09, 2015

Butterick 5678- Shirt fever still going strong.

Happy Friday my sewing friends. I am quickly falling back into my days of button down shirts and t-shirts. With shirts being my true love. I keep trying to force myself to sew up a few blouses. You know the ones you must pull over your head. Well it's not working for me.
This is probably one of the best shirt patterns put out by Butterick, but they in their infinite wisdom decided to discontinue this version. WHY!! @mccallspatterncompany would you do that???!?! Doesn't really make since to me. Especially, since it's a cup sized pattern and is a great design for many figure types.
With princess seaming and the best sleeve inset and sleeve cap ease I have found, this is a dream to sew. It comes with patch pockets, plackets, sleeve applets and other details that would make a great cargo shirt as well as a terrific military style shirt. So why did it go away.
Fitting wise this was easy. I cut a straight size 14 and used the D cup front piece and added a tad bit for a broad back at the blades and the. Did a sway back adjustment of only 3/8". Of course for this fitted shirt pockets dos not work on those mounds we call bust. I I took them off and will opt for pockets on a more moderately fitted shirt.
I am so glad is traced and secured this pattern for use in the future. They should bring it back real fast and in a hurry before there is an uprising in the sewing community.
Let's wave our flags with this picture to get them to hear our cry.

Until net time. Keep sewing.

Wednesday, October 07, 2015

No Heels, No Fuss, Relaxed Jumpsuit- NewLook 6373

simplicitycreativegroup, newlook patterns
A comfortable jumpsuit trumps so many a maxi dress and maxi skirt on those days you don't want to be bothered with all the excess fabric around your ankles.  Since I still can't wear heels because of my car shoe wardrobe is being just a tad bit altered.
Now, you should know, I don't grab "high heels" as usual attire for daily wear, but I do wear a lot of kitten heels and wedges.  However, at this point, I can't even wear them.  "Tennis shoes" only I am told, but they just don't look good with "regular" clothes.  So, I decided to pickup a pair of soft soled padded "tennis-like" flats.
This jumpsuit is so comfortable...I did not think I would like it with all the flounce on the chest.  But, it seemed to have turned out alright.  It was sort of low for my taste, but of course that was just a matter of shortening the straps.
simplicitycreativegroup, newlook patterns 6373
I like the way the pants hang, with the "straight legs" and slightly "high-water" affect.  I did think about putting elastic in the ankles and making the legs just a bit more narrow, but  NAAAHHH!! that look is just not for me y'all.  I'll try it another day, you have to give me a moment to wrap myself around that 80's look.  I didn't wear them then, so I'll need a little more time now---say another 30 years? What do you think?
simplicitycreativegroup, simplicity patterns, newlook patterns
Of course a jacket will up the anti on any outfit.  This RTW jacket is made of a heavy weight ponte knit I bought a few years ago.  So bright and just the topping for any sun-welcoming top when you need to coverup.  Another covering I'm working to try is the draped front "cardigan" which I haven't managed to push myself to sew just yet.  Give me some time, I'll jump on board eventually.
I started making this jumpsuit a couple of months ago as a class project "sew-along" with a student who wanted to make this her garment.  Of course, I wanted to make sure I knew all the problems that could arise for her, so I decided to make it for myself as well, and she followed along stitch-by-stitch as we worked to completion. I am a proud momma right now!!
Image use approved by student.
Right off the bat I found a little problem, which I quickly altered for simplicity of construction.  The flounce is applied on top of the bodice and then a facing is sewn on and turned to the inside, thereby, creating 3 layers at the top.
Sewing the flounce in like that was totally unnecessary.  So, I omitted the facing and we sewed the straps onto the bodice, and then sewed the flounce wrong side to wrong side on the inside and turned it to the outside, causing the raw edge at the neck and under arm to be covered by the flounce. Another reason I love sewing for myself as well.
I cut a size 14 up top and a size 16 on the bottom and graded in to the waist.  For the top, I added a zipper to mine in the back mainly because my hips required more room for entry compared to the difference at the bust and waist.  So, my zipper opening needed to be at least 9 inches in addition to the top edge, whereas the patterns regular "slit" opening only allowed for an additional 4 inches.  That just means that the built in "strapless" opening on the top + the back "slit" should total whatever my hips are in order to get them down for nature calls.  39+9 is 48" 
Have a great day.  Until next time....

"I don't know everything, 
but, I do know a lot about some things, 
so I'll teach you a
few things of what I do know."

Tuesday, October 06, 2015

A Thank You!!! GiveAway Going on now...

This video is to Thank You!!! and GIVEAWAY!!! a free gift to one person who subscribes to my YouTube channel.  Watch it to get all the simple details.  This is a token of my appreciation for you all trusting me via your subscriptions and sharing my videos to your online community. 

I blog to share my makes and tutorials or any sewing related information.  Blogging is an extension of my "IRL" activities, but more than is a way to connect with those that love to do what I love to do, and to interact with people who I can learn from, and share with those who need a little help along the way.

I am a certified sewing instructor and pattern fitting teacher IRL.  I alter patterns to fit for those who already know how to sew, and I teach those who want to learn or improve their skills.
I am also a Brand Ambassador for BERNINA USA, and am happy to have the privilege to do so.

You can always check me out elsewhere on the web:


Please feel free to ask questions and make suggestions in the YouTube video comments in order to be eligible.  If you are not one of my YouTube subscribers, let me know what you would like to see more of on my blog in the comments below.

Thanks for all your interest in my little slice of this internet world.

"I don't know everything, 
but, I do know a lot about some things, 
so I'll teach you a
few things of what I do know."

Saturday, October 03, 2015

How To Trace Commercial Sewing Patterns

Happy Saturday!! I thought about you all when I had to copy a pattern that is out of print.  I didn't want to use up the pattern, so I traced it onto Swedish tracing paper in order to save the original for later use.  Here is a quick tutorial on tracing patterns.  Hope it's useful.

Commercial "tissue paper" patterns are great to have when it comes to tracing off your size from the multi-size sheets.   This is the only time having "thin" paper is a bonus--you will be more inclined to trace your size and protect the pattern for future use.
how to trace commercial sewing patterns tutorial

SUPPLIES:  You will need only 3 items:
  1. Sharpie Fine Point Markers

  2. Tracing paper

  3. Commercial Sewing Patterns of course (mccalls, simplicity)

"Sharpie" fine point markers.  

Sharpie is the only one that I have found to work as well as they do.  I think it has something to do with the ink, but that is my guess, and it isn't a scientific fact, just trust me on this, it works. Keep these points in mind

  •  Choose multiple colors for each different size you plan to use from any given pattern and stick with that color throughout.  

  •  On multi-sized patterns, try to use one color consistently throughout the process from one pattern to another, as a means to color code your work. (pink= size 12, purple= size 14, orange= size 16, etc.)  Because I use basic colors for pattern markings, alterations, and notes, I steer clear of using Black, Blue, Red, and sometimes Green for tracing.

  •  The lighter colors work best, the light color allows the original pattern markings to remain visible on the tissue, the lighter colors will do less damage to your patterns, and they still show through to your tracing paper just the same.

"Tracing Paper"
Make sure to use a light color paper suitable for receiving the ink transfer and for visibility.  Keep these points in mind when selecting your paper: 
  • The lighter the marker you select, the lighter the paper should be that you select.  I use "blue-dot" pattern paper or "Swedish" tracing paper.  I have tried the art vellum as well, but I have found that the ink smears as I move around my work.

"Patterns to Transfer" 
Any non-PDF pattern which has been commercially printed to tissue paper.  
  • This method has been proven to work with patterns made of the thin, non-waxed brownish tan tissue paper.   

  •  The tissue from these patterns may have a slight "sheen" on the wrong side, and will have a non-wax smooth texture on the right side. 
"I don't know everything, 
but, I do know a lot about some things, 
so I'll teach you a
few things of what I do know."