Monday, June 08, 2015

July 4th Comes Early: McCall's 6559

Was I thinking of Independence Day when I made this dress, was my mind set on the Stars and Stripes of our country? No, I was being me....just sewing because I liked the look of this fun design.
How to sew stripes and knits.
McCall's 6559 was the pattern I used even though I already have a few patterns for maxi dresses, but you would need to cut and add allowances, worry about placement and too many test fits and muslins in order to make it work. So why not use a pattern? Makes sense to me, right.
How to sew stripes and knits.
The seaming was all over the place--from bias seams sewn along seams with straight of grain, it was very important to make sure to match the stripes only where it really, really mattered.  Such is so with the side seams.  I didn't worry so much with the semi-bias and true bias seams.
How to sew stripes and knits.
I made the placket front because of an idea I got from some current Michael Kors designs. Grommets and eyelets must be the new exposed zipper.  The star for adhered after the right side seam was sewn before the lining was inserted.  I used a spray adhesive to secure it before I used a simple zigzag appliqué to permanently secure it in place.  There was no stretching using the walking foot.
How to sew stripes and knits.
Pattern and Construction Notes: 

Listed as a "Very" close-fitting, pullover dresses. E and F: front seam detail, bias upper/middle fronts, and lower front/back (cut on crosswise grain of fabric. All have narrow hems.

Pattern Sizing: 
I cut a size 14 with a 1/2" FBA and graded to a 16 at the hip front and added an additional 2" to the "back" pattern piece at the hip.  

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I have liked this dress design since it came out.  The star and the mix of lines is what has always intrigued me.  But until I found this fabric did I really want to make it.  The star is what did it for me.  It is such a cute whimsical addition to a simple maxi dress.  I even enjoyed having the stripes being reversible, which is really the fabric.  This keeps it from being boring.  

Were the instructions easy to follow? I did not follow the instructions, and its not because I sew a lot, its just an easy sew. The neckline was changed substantially.  
Reversible Striped Knit from Sew Much Fabric
Fabric Used: A reversible beefy Rayon Spandex blend can be found Here.

I lengthened it above the waist by 1" and at the hem by 2".  Next time I will give it another 2" at the hem for heels.  This dress runs short.
I also narrowed the skirt by 2" each side making it more straight instead of a-line.

A double placket was added to the neckline to add some pazazz.